Continuing our culinary series, Anthony Peregrine offers a guide to the 10 dishes all visitors to France must find time for.
What makes it great: The fishiest fish dish in the world started out, like most French classics, as a poor man’s platter. Marseille fishermen boiled up for themselves the items they couldn’t sell. Hence qualification for inclusion in this scrum of fish is extreme ugliness. (Take a close look at a scorpion fish; you’ll understand.) These days, bouillabaisse has tipped over into top-end dining: beware versions under £30 a throw.
It generally comes in two servings – first the broth as soup, with croutons and a spicy rouille sauce, then the plateful of five…