Rediscovering Dominica two years after the hurricane – has it fully healed?

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Yellow-breasted bananaquits perch chattering in the lush vegetation amid orange, purple and fire-red flowers. Russet-fronted Caribbean bullfinches hop along the balustrade, cocking their heads, alert for any spillage of crumbs, while behind them, across a broad blue bay, rise verdant volcanic slopes.

It is hard to believe that little more than a year ago, all this was devastation. On Sep 18 2017, Hurricane Maria roared through Dominica like nature’s bulldozer, ploughing down walls, whipping away cars, and stripping the forest bare.

“There wasn’t a leaf in sight,” I am told, “just broken trunks and fallen branches – it was all brown.”

Today, Dominica’s nine volcanoes are once again wrapped in…

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